Stories
Hiking with Zsolt · The Szeklerland
Hiking with Zsolt · The Szeklerland
How history becomes alive
"I am a local patriot."
Mid-October, unusual 25 degrees, Székelykeresztúr flickers sluggishly in the sun. Only above the hills, where the Jesus cross shines white, there may be a breeze. A little hike should bring us there. Zsolt Kovács, employee and mentor at A.T.A., leads me and other volunteers along the way with fast steps – years of factory work in Western Europe enhanced his resilience. During my research about the region, I want to know why he came back. „I was in Denmark only to work“, Zsolt writes to me. When there was enough money, he built a house in his homeland. “I am a local patriot”. Zsolt’s relation to the local community is strong, he is proud of the culture and language.
But “Home” becomes here a difficult term if it is defined as being part of a state. In the Middle Ages, Hungarians took over the region during their territorial dilatation. A folk, later called “Szekler”, was located for defence in border areas. Its geographical and linguistic origin is not verifiable, the naming merely stems from the subdivision of its territories into cantons or “chair districts” (Hungarian “széc”). After being delayed to the east, the Szeklerland was isolated from the large Hungarian language area and enjoyed at the same time inner independence. Therefore, identity and ethnography developed: the Szekler as a Magyar (= Hungarian-speaking) soldier people. Typical memorial columns and gates with specific decorations still distinguish the region from others today.
Its autonomy remained intact until the 19th century. Not before 1867 the Szeklerland was incorporated into Austria-Hungary and lost its special status. When the Dual Monarchy was one of the losers of the war in 1918, whole Transylvania was transferred to Romania in the Treaty of Trianon. Twenty years later, during the Second World War, Hungary wanted to annex the areas of Magyars again. Romania was then forced by the German Reich and Italy to surrender Northern Transylvania with the 2nd Vienna award (“Viennese Dictate”). That’s why the Szeklerland was again part of Hungary for 4 years until the Red Army entered in 1944 and Romania took over the administration. This restoration was established in 1946 at the Paris Peace Conference and still exists today.
The changeful history becomes tangible as we reach the summit: Three times since its construction about 100 years ago, the cross has changed nationality, protecting alternately Hungarian and Romanian territory in the valley. Zsolt points to the opposite mountain range. “There was the border.“ This line still exists linguistically; hardly anyone speaks Hungarian in Sighișoara 20 kilometres away, and almost everyone does in Székelykeresztúr… Which state does he feel he belongs to, or in other words, which of the countries has the more original claim to the Szekler region? None, says Zsolt. They both used the territory for their purposes – they still do. Bucharest rejects all attempts at autonomy, the national unity should not be questioned. At the same time, the 600,000 inhabitants of the Hungarian districts of Harghita, Covasna, and Mures are categorically neglected.
A view down into the valley: 3, maybe 4 factory chimneys smoke slowly in the blue afternoon sky, a horse plow moves across the field. “We are the economically weakest region in Romania”, says our hiking guide. Among the income distributed by the government, the Szekler circles get the least. The people should be persuaded to follow the money and move into the Romanian cities so that the high concentration of ethnic Hungarians thins out.
It’s no wonder that many people here have no good words for the Romanian state. The neighbour takes advantage of this: In 2011, the right-wing-conservative government under Victor Orban introduced dual citizenship for Hungarians living abroad. The critics were told that it was a symbolic act, but this was forgotten soon and the “new” Hungarians in Transylvania were aswell allowed to elect the parliament in Budapest after another constitutional amendment. More than 90% voted, of course, for Orban’s FIDESZ. However these decisions may be assessed, as a vote-buying and softening of the Trianon Treaty, for example, the result was a politicisation on both sides: In 2013, Romanian authorities removed the Szekler flags in Transylvania. When Hungary massively criticised Romania, its reaction was similar to that during communist times when Ceaușescu made life difficult for the Szeklers: no interference in domestic affairs, please!
We descend through wavy hills, then walk back to Székelykeresztúr in the evening light. Numerous blue-golden flags wave proudly from ridges and balconies. They may say: Keep on!
If this story sparked your interest towards finding out more about Rural Transylvania and possible ways to experience it, you are welcome to contact us.
· Youth Association from Transylvania at office.ata@gmail.com
· Farmers Association from the Cristuru Secuiesc Area at office.aacs@gmail.com
