People

Balázs · Shepherd

Balázs · Shepherd

Across Keresztúr hills
  • Flock of sheep
  • Balázs
  • Balázs

"Nowadays it's very difficult finding new shepherds.

Youngsters are not trained and don't pay attention to all the details"

 

Our first approach wasn’t peaceful. When trying to reach Balázs and his flock of sheep we first saw ourselves surrounded by a pack of some 10 large, threatening dogs barking at us. When he finally tells them we are no harm and let us pass through their dissuasive noisy wall, we find Balàzs sheltering mid-hill under a shadow: leaning over his wooden herding stick, he smokes the first of his many cigarettes throughout the afternoon.
Now 41, he’s been a shepherd since his youngest years. His parents died early and his uncle, a shepherd himself, raised him. He graduated high school, but in-between and after, he stayed in the family business. “Nowadays it’s very difficult finding new shepherds. Youngsters are not trained and don’t pay attention to all the details”, he complains when asked about the next generation of shepherds.
His smile lacks several teeth, and there’s frankness in his light blue eyes, that occasionally lose themselves looking to infinite. His tanned and his many wrinkles prove the thousands of hours spent under to the Transylvanian sun. Gray, short curls escape under the boundary of a sun-faded blue cap that protects a bald, tanned crown of the head.
He wears an also sun-faded, worn-out advertising t-shirt. An old mobile phone dating from the pre-smartphone era hangs in a small cloth bag tied with a cord around his neck.

  • Flock of sheep
  • Balázs
  • Balázs and the flock of sheep

There’s an evident language barrier between us, as his English is very rudimentary and my Hungarian is directly non-existent. Yet, Balázs keeps trying communicating and doesn’t stop talking for a second the whole afternoon, mixing English, Romanian and Hungarian to make his message understandable. He’s calmed and comfortable with the camera and with being the object of interest of a foreigner, he finds it funny.
When we were looking for the shepherd and his flock, we were speculating: “imagine we get there and he’s scrolling Facebook or playing Candy Crush”, we joked. Nothing further from reality: Balázs way of life is old-style and the only technological feats he keeps are the old phone hanging around his neck and an even older radio he keeps in his cabin. “I like it here, in the nature, without the noise of the cars or the smell of the smoke. It’s simple, but it’s beautiful”, he states.

  • Balázs and his small cabin

Standing on top of one of the hills that surround Keresztúr’s lake, he points at a flock of sheep grazing in the opposite slope: “that one is managed the traditional way. It’s partly like a cooperative with many owners, and they take turns to milk and slaughter the sheep in a proportional way”. His flock, on the contrary, belongs to only three people and the animals are marked to identify their owner. He owns 50 sheep,18 of which in this fold and the rest in another on in his village, in Kányád. Miklós Fazakas, the owner and his brother in law own the rest of more than 670 sheep.

Contrary to common sense, wool is just a side product from sheep breeding: Balázs shears the animals himself and sells it to a cloth factory. However, meat —and in some cases also milk— is the main product: newborn lambs are sold to Greece when they are four-five months, while older sheep are locally slaughtered when they reach an age of five or six years and their meat is still tender.

Miklós Fazakas is also the owner of all the land around Keresztúr’s Lake —and the lake itself—, and he pays Balázs both in cash and in kind: tobacco, alcohol, meet and vegetables he grows himself.

Around the lake, Miklós leases land for others to grow alfalfa and, after it’s harvested, Balázs walks the flock over the same area. It’s a symbiotic relationship: the sheep feed and at the same time clean and fertilize the land. The sheep are kept indoors during the winter and, when spring arrives, Balázs takes the flock out and walks it around the lake all summer long: there is not the tradition nor the conditions for transhumance, which requires large, continuous grazing areas, in contrast to Széklerland hills and forests.

  • Flock of sheep
  • Sheep wool

Balázs’s main concern are bears that from time to time venture outside the forest and slaughter a sheep or two. He repeats this fear every few words. To defend the flock he counts on fifteen large, threatening dogs that bark at any sign of an outsider approaching as was the case when we first got close to the animals. The pack is led by Rigó, a black, playful dog: “he’s the smallest of them all, but he’s the most intelligent”, he affirms as he pets it. However, Balázs says that only ten dogs are not enough to defend the flock, so Miklós has just bought six more from another shepherd.

It’s 7:00 PM and the sun starts his slow descent in the sky. Balázs now directs the flock towards the lake for sheep to drink, although some of them prefer the enclosed trough in the slope. Now the animals, already close to the outdoors pen where they will stay during the night, graze for another couple of hours.

In the meantime, Balázs relaxes in the small cabin made of tin next to the pen where he keeps the essentials for his way of life: some food, a change of clothes, an old radio, tobacco, pálinka, wine… The place is barely the size of a mattress and has two wheels and a hook to move it if it’s necessary.

Late in the afternoon Miklós Fazakas shows up to help getting the flock into the pen, cleaning the dogs and healing the injured sheep.

  • Balázs and his boss cleaning a dog
  • Flock of sheep

“It’s a very quiet, calm job, but you have to pay attention and be awake 24 hours a day so bears don’t kill the flock”, concludes Balázs, reiterating once more his fear of bears.

If this story sparked your interest towards finding out more about Rural Transylvania and possible ways to experience it, you are welcome to contact us. 
· Youth Association from Transylvania at office.ata@gmail.com 
· Farmers Association from the Cristuru Secuiesc Area at office.aacs@gmail.com

Author


Avatar